Field Lab - "OFFICIAL" DISH LIST FOR SUNSET HOLIDAY MENU - 2001

Dish	Who
Crimson Spice Champagne Cocktail
Cranberry Ice Aperitif
Spinach and Pear Salad with Sherry and Stilton
Spice-rubbed Roast Turkey	Chris & Nona
Cornbread-Pecan Dressing	Lisa
Wild Rice and Squash Dressing
Marmalade- and Ginger-glazed Sweet Potatoes	Will *
Italian Mashed Potatoes; variations	Paul, Steve, & Karen
Southwestern Roasted Green Beans	Ben
Savory Gravy; Baked Craberry-Orange Sauce
Yogurt Cheese Torta with Pesto; variations	Brian & Kristen
Roasted Cauliflower with Capers and Bread Crumbs	Florent
Beets with Orange Vinaigrette	Greg
Roasted Broccoli Rabe and Radicchio with Lemon
Chocolate-Caramel Trifle with Raspberries
Coconut-Curry Seafood Crepes; Curried Crepes
Mushroom-Herb Risotto	Florent
Mushroom Pâté	Johanna & Warren
Crab and Mushroom Strata	Nona & Chris
Chili-painted Portabellas in Puff Pastry
Cheese straws
Two-Tone Puff Straws, Pastry Straws; variations
Cranberry Crown Cheesecake; Persimmon-glazed Cheesecake	Amber
Pumpkin Ice Cream Torte with Ginger Crust; Candied Walnuts	Halton
Harvest Apple Pie with Hazelnut Streusel	Steve, Karen, & Paul
Double-Lemon Sherbet
Lime Sorbet

"FAMILY TRADITIONS"

Dish	Who
chocolate mousse	Geeske & Urs
green salad	Geeske & Urs
whole wheat cinnamon raisin bagels	George & Milton
Italian cheescake with fruit sauce	Erika & Bernie
Australian chutney	Johanna & Warren
fish hor d'oeuvre	Johanna & Warren

RECIPES FOR THE SUNSET HOLIDAY MENU - 2001

Crimson Spice Champagne Cocktail

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours, plus at least 2 hours to cool and chill syrup

NOTES: For a nonalcoholic alternative, substitute lemon-lime or club soda for the cognac and Champagne. If making syrup up to 1 week ahead, chill airtight.

MAKES: 16 servings

2 quarts cranberry juice cocktail

8 slices (quarter size and about 1/8 in. thick) peeled fresh ginger

2 cinnamon sticks (about 3 in. long)

2 whole star anise

1/3 cup cognac or brandy

8 cups Champagne or other sparkling wine (about 2 2/3 bottles, 750 ml. each), chilled

32 to 48 fresh cranberries, rinsed, or frozen cranberries (optional)

1. In a 3 1/2- to 4-quart pan, combine cranberry juice, ginger, cinnamon sticks, and star anise. Boil over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 1 hour. Let cool about 30 minutes, then pour through a fine strainer into a small pitcher. Chill syrup until cold, at least 1 1/2 hours.

2. For each serving, pour 2 tablespoons of the cranberry syrup and 1 teaspoon cognac into a Champagne flute (6 to 8 oz.). Add 1/2 cup (4 oz.) Champagne. Garnish with 2 or 3 cranberries if desired.

Cranberry Ice Aperitif

PREP TIME: About 20 minutes, plus at least 3 hours to freeze

NOTES: For this festive aperitif, we use cranberry ice from Gerri Gilliland, owner of Lula in Los Angeles. Rather than using it in a drink, you can serve the ice plain as a palate refresher or as a light dessert.

MAKES: 9 to 12 servings

1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1tablespoon lemon juice

1 bottle (750 ml.) chilled sparkling wine such as Champagne or spumante, or sparkling apple cider

Fresh mint sprigs, rinsed

1. Sort cranberries, discarding any bruised or decayed fruit; rinse and drain berries. In a 1- to 2-quart pan over high heat, bring cranberries and 1/2 cup water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until skins pop on berries, about 10 minutes. Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat.

2. Stir in 1/2 cup cold water, lemon peel, and lemon juice. In a blender, whirl half the mixture at a time until smooth. Pour purée into a 9- by 5-inch loaf pan. Freeze until solid, at least 3 hours, or up to 1 week (cover when solid).

3. Cut cranberry ice into 1-inch cubes. With a wide spatula, lift cubes out of pan and drop three into each Champagne flute or wineglass. Pour 1/4 to 1/3 cup wine over cubes. Garnish each glass with a mint sprig and serve immediately.

Per serving: 79 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.1 g protein; 0 g fat; 10 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 3.6 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Artichoke Bisque with Parsley-Lemon Gremolata

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 50 minutes

NOTES: If making bisque through step 3 up to 1 day ahead, cool, cover, and chill; stir often over medium heat until hot.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and chopped

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

6 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth or vegetable broth

3 packages (8 oz. each) frozen artichoke hearts

1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon

Softly whipped cream or sour cream

Parsley-Lemon Gremolata (recipe follows)

Salt and white or black pepper

1. In a 4- to 5-quart pan over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add onion and stir often until golden, 7 to 10 minutes.

2. Add flour and stir to coat onion. Add broth, artichoke hearts, and tarragon; stir until mixture boils and thickens, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. In a blender, holding lid down with a towel, whirl mixture in batches until smooth; pour into a large bowl.

4. Return soup to pan and stir over low heat until hot. Ladle into bowls and garnish with spoonfuls of whipped cream and Parsley-Lemon Gremolata. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 153 cal., 50% (76 cal.) from fat; 9.1 g protein; 8.4 g fat (2.5 g sat.); 12 g carbo (6 g fiber); 129 mg sodium; 7.8 mg chol.

Parsley-Lemon Gremolata

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Use this sprightly combination of lemon and parsley to season the artichoke bisque (preceding), or mix with about 2 pounds hot cooked green beans, peas, broccoli, or asparagus for a special holiday vegetable. If making mixture up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill.

MAKES: About 1/4 cup

In a food processor, whirl 1 cup coarsely chopped Italian or regular parsley, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel, 1 peeled clove garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper until finely chopped. (Or with a knife, mince parsley and garlic and put in a bowl; mix with oil, lemon peel, and pepper.) Add salt to taste.

Per teaspoon: 48 cal., 94% (30 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 5.1 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 0.7 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 3 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Spinach and Pear Salad with Sherry and Stilton

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: If preparing nuts (step 1) up to 1 day ahead, wrap airtight and store at room temperature.

MAKES: 8 servings

3/4 cup hazelnuts

1/3 cup sherry vinegar or cider vinegar

1/3 cup hazelnut or salad oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

3 firm-ripe pears (8 oz. each.), rinsed

4 quarts baby spinach leaves (1 lb.), rinsed and crisped

1 cup crumbled Stilton or gorgonzola cheese (6 oz.)

Salt and pepper

1. In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir hazelnuts often until golden under skins, 5 to 10 minutes. Pour onto a towel and let stand until cool enough to handle. Rub nuts in towel to remove any loose skins. Lift nuts from towel and reserve; discard skins. Coarsely chop nuts.

2. In a large bowl, whisk vinegar, oil, and mustard to blend. Cut pears lengthwise into quarters and core; cut quarters lengthwise into thin slices. Drop slices into bowl and mix to coat with dressing. Add spinach and mix gently. Sprinkle with cheese and toasted nuts and mix gently. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 299 cal., 69% (207 cal.) from fat; 7.5 g protein; 23 g fat (5.7 g sat.); 21 g carbo (6.1 g fiber); 445 mg sodium; 19 mg chol.

Shrimp with Wasabi Mayo

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Look for wasabi powder in the spice or Asian section of your supermarket or in an Asian grocery store. If making wasabi mayo up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill.

MAKES: 12 to 14 appetizer servings

1. In a small bowl, mix 2 tablespoons dried wasabi powder with 2 tablespoons water until smooth. In a food processor or blender, whirl 1 cup regular or reduced-fat mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves, and three-fourths of the wasabi mixture until smooth. Taste, and add salt and more of the wasabi mixture if desired; save remaining for other uses.

2. Scrape into a bowl and garnish with a fresh mint sprig, rinsed. Serve with 1 1/2 pounds (31 to 40 per lb.) shelled cooked shrimp, rinsed and drained, to dip into sauce.

Per serving: 163 cal., 72% (117 cal.) from fat; 10 g protein; 13 g fat (2 g sat.); 1 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 199 mg sodium; 104 mg chol.

Spice-rubbed Roast Turkey Roasting chart Spice rubs Stuffing the bird?

PREP AND COOK TIME: 2 1/4 to 3 1/4 hours, plus at least 30 minutes to rest. For other turkey sizes, see chart.

NOTES: If time is short, you can substitute a purchased spice blend for any of the spice mixes at right; many are now available in the spice section of most supermarkets. Rub turkey (step 1) up to 1 day ahead; wrap airtight and chill. Be sure your pan is large enough that turkey doesn't overlap rim.

MAKES: Allow 3/4 pound uncooked turkey per person

1 turkey (14 to 23 lb.)

1/4 cup olive or salad oil

2 tablespoons Chinese Five-Spice, Jamaican Jerk, Provençal, Red Curry, or Southwest Chili Rub (recipes below)

Salt and pepper

1. Remove and discard leg truss from turkey. Pull off and discard any lumps of fat. Remove giblets and neck; save for Savory Gravy. Rinse turkey inside and out and pat dry. Rub all over with oil. Rub spice mixture evenly over skin and inside neck and body cavities.

2. Place turkey, breast up, on a V-shaped rack in a 12- by 17-inch roasting pan (see notes).

3. Roast in a 325° regular or convection oven until a thermometer inserted through thickest part of breast to bone registers 160°, 2 to 3 hours.

4. Transfer turkey to a platter. Let rest, uncovered, in a warm place at least 30 minutes, then carve. (See chart for directions if thigh joints are still pink.) Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per 1/4 pound boned cooked turkey with skin, based on percentages of white and dark meat in an average bird: 240 cal., 38% (90 cal.) from fat; 32 g protein; 10 g fat (3 g sat.); 2.9 g carbo (0 g fiber); 376 mg sodium; 93 mg chol.

Chinese Five-Spice Rub

In a small bowl, mix 1 tablespoon ground ginger, 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon crushed anise or fennel seed, and 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves. (Or use 2 tablespoons Chinese five-spice blend.) Makes about 2 tablespoons.

Jamaican Jerk Rub

In a small bowl, mix 1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger; 1 teaspoon each ground allspice, dried thyme, cayenne, and pepper; and 1/2 teaspoon onion powder. (Or use 2 tablespoons Jamaican jerk blend.) Makes about 2 tablespoons.

Provençal Rub

In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons each crushed dried rosemary and dried thyme and 1 teaspoon each dried rubbed sage and dried lavender (or more sage). (Or use 2 tablespoons provençal herb blend.) Makes about 2 tablespoons.

Red Curry Rub

In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons chili powder; 1 teaspoon each ground coriander, ground ginger, and cayenne; 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin; and 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric. (Or use 2 tablespoons red curry powder.) Makes about 2 tablespoons.

Southwest Chili Rub

In a small bowl, mix 1 tablespoon ground ancho or California chili and 1 teaspoon each ground cumin, ground chipotle chili or cayenne, and dried oregano. (Or use chili powder or a Southwest chili blend.) Makes about 2 tablespoons.

Cornbread-Pecan Dressing, Wild Rice and Squash Dressing

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

NOTES: The cornbread (homemade or from a 13-oz. mix) can be baked up to 1 day before preparing dressing. If you especially like mustard greens, use two packages. Prepare dressing through step 4 up to 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Heat, covered, in a microwave-safe container in a microwave oven on full power (100%), stirring occasionally, until hot in the center, 5 to 6 minutes. Or bake, covered, as directed in step 5 until hot, 50 to 60 minutes, then uncover to brown as directed.

MAKES: 13 cups; 13 to 17 servings

7 to 8 cups 1/2-inch cubes cornbread

1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

6 ounces cooked ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 onion (12 oz.), peeled and chopped

1 cup chopped celery

1 or 2 bags (1 lb. each) frozen chopped mustard greens, thawed

1 package (1 lb.) frozen corn kernels

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves or 1 teaspoon dried rubbed sage

1/2 to 3/4 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth

Salt and pepper

1. Spread cornbread cubes in a 12- by 17-inch roasting pan. Bake in a 350° regular or convection oven, stirring occasionally, until edges begin to brown, 25 to 35 minutes. Spread pecans in a 9-inch pie pan and bake in same oven until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

2. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat, melt butter; add ham, onion, and celery and stir often until onion begins to brown, 7 to 10 minutes.

3. Squeeze excess liquid from mustard greens. Stir greens, corn, and sage into ham mixture. Mix in cornbread and enough broth to moisten lightly. Stir in pecans.

4. Spoon dressing into a shallow 3-quart baking dish and cover tightly.

5. Bake in a 325° regular or convection oven (350° if baking with a turkey at that temperature) until hot in the center, 15 to 25 minutes. Uncover and bake until top is lightly browned, 15 to 25 minutes longer. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 211 cal., 43% (90 cal.) from fat; 7 g protein; 10 g fat (2.4 g sat.); 25 g carbo (2.8 g fiber); 431 mg sodium; 29 mg chol.

Wild Rice and Squash Dressing Cornbread-Pecan Dressing Stuffing the bird?

If you are stuffing your turkey, just before roasting, fill the neck and body cavities loosely with dressing. When the bird is done, make sure the dressing is heated to a bacteria-safe 160°: Insert a thermometer into the center of it; if the temperature is too low, spoon the dressing into a bowl and heat in a microwave oven at full power (100%), stirring often to distribute heat, until it is 160° throughout.

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, cool, cover, and chill. Reheat, covered, in a microwave-safe container in a microwave oven at full power (100%), stirring occasionally, until hot, 5 to 6 minutes. Or bake, covered, in a shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart casserole in a 325° oven (350° if baking with a turkey at that temperature), stirring once or twice, until hot in the center, about 1 hour.

MAKES: 10 cups; 10 to 12 servings

1 cup wild rice

1 1/2 pounds banana squash

1 pound mild Italian sausages

1 onion (12 oz.), peeled and chopped

1 cup long-grain white rice

2 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth

1/3 cup dried currants

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 cinnamon stick (3 in. long)

1 package (10 oz.) frozen chopped spinach, thawed

Salt and pepper

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 1 1/2 to 2 quarts water to a boil. Rinse and drain wild rice. Add to boiling water, cover, and return to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, covered, until rice is tender to bite and beginning to split, 35 to 45 minutes. Drain.

2. Meanwhile, cut off and discard peel from squash. Cut squash into 1/2-inch cubes (you should have about 4 cups).

3. Remove casings from sausages and discard. Crumble sausages into a 5- to 6-quart nonstick pan; stir often over medium-high heat until browned, about 5 minutes. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat in pan. Add onion; stir often until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add white rice; stir until beginning to turn opaque, about 3 minutes.

4. Add broth, currants, coriander, nutmeg, and cinnamon to pan. Bring to a boil over high heat; cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add squash; cover and simmer over low heat, gently stirring once, until rice and squash are tender to bite, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Squeeze liquid from spinach. Add spinach and wild rice to pan and mix gently. Cover and cook until hot, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 257 cal., 33% (84 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 9.3 g fat (3.1 g sat.); 32 g carbo (2.8 g fiber); 300 mg sodium; 23 mg chol.

SAVORY SIDE DISHES Marmalade- and Ginger-glazed Sweet Potatoes

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

NOTES: Prepare through step 3 up to 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and chill. Reheat, covered, in a 325° oven (350° if baking with a turkey at that temperature) until hot in the center, 25 to 35 minutes, then continue with step 4.

MAKES: 8 servings

2 pounds sweet potatoes or yams (each 2 to 2 1/2 in. wide)

1 orange (about 2 1/2-in. diameter; 6 oz.), rinsed

2/3 cup orange marmalade

1/3 or 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon brandy or orange juice

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

1/4 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger

About 1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Peel sweet potatoes and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Cut unpeeled orange in half through stem, then crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, discarding end pieces and seeds.

2. In a large bowl, mix 1/3 cup marmalade, 1/3 cup brandy (1/2 cup if using sweet potatoes), butter, ginger, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add sweet potatoes and mix to coat. Arrange slices in rows in a single layer, overlapping them slightly, in a shallow, 3-quart casserole (such as a 9 by 13 in. baking dish), interspersing the orange slices evenly throughout. Drizzle any of the remaining brandy mixture over the sweet potatoes. Cover tightly with foil.

3. Bake in a 325° regular or convection oven (350° if baking with a turkey at that temperature) until sweet potatoes are tender when pierced, 50 to 60 minutes.

4. In a small bowl, mix remaining 1/3 cup marmalade and 1 tablespoon brandy. Uncover sweet potatoes and brush marmalade mixture evenly over the top. Broil 6 inches from heat until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add more salt to taste.

Per serving: 242 cal., 12% (28 cal.) from fat; 1.9 g protein; 3.1 g fat (1.8 g sat.); 55 g carbo (4.7 g fiber); 204 mg sodium; 7.8 mg chol.

SAVORY SIDE DISHES Italian Mashed Potatoes And variations

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: Gemma Sciabica of Modesto, California, uses a fruity olive oil in her mashed potatoes. If making up to 1 day ahead, cool, cover, and chill. Reheat, covered, in a microwave-safe container in a microwave oven on full power (100%), stirring occasionally, until hot, 5 to 7 minutes. Or bake, covered, in a shallow 1 1/2- to 2-quart casserole in a 325° oven (350° if baking with a turkey at that temperature), stirring once after 30 minutes, until hot in the center, 40 to 50 minutes total.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

3 pounds thin-skinned potatoes

About 1 cup milk

1 to 2 tablespoons minced garlic

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup grated romano cheese

1/2 cup minced fresh basil leaves or parsley

1/8 teaspoon paprika or cayenne

Salt and pepper

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 1 quart water to a boil.

2. Peel and rinse potatoes; cut into 1-inch chunks. Add potatoes to boiling water; cover and return to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until potatoes mash easily, 10 to 12 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan over medium heat, warm 1 cup milk and garlic until steaming, about 5 minutes. (Or in a 2-cup microwave-safe container, heat milk and garlic in a microwave oven on full power [100%] until steaming, 1 to 2 minutes.)

4. Drain potatoes and return to pan. Add the hot milk mixture, oil, cheese, basil, and paprika. Mash with a potato masher or an electric mixer until potatoes are as lumpy or smooth as you like, adding a little more milk for a softer, creamier texture if desired. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 283 cal., 51% (144 cal.) from fat; 5.7 g protein; 16 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 29 g carbo (2.8 g fiber); 87 mg sodium; 9.5 mg chol.

Prosciutto Mashed Potatoes

Follow recipe for Italian Mashed Potatoes (preceding), stirring 1/2 cup finely chopped prosciutto (1 1/2 oz.) into mixture in step 4.

Per serving: 297 cal., 52% (153 cal.) from fat; 7.2 g protein; 17 g fat (3.5 g sat.); 30 g carbo (2.8 g fiber); 185 mg sodium; 14 mg chol.

Chive Mashed Potatoes

Follow recipe for Italian Mashed Potatoes (preceding), stirring 1/2 cup thinly sliced chives into mixture in step 4.

Per serving: 285 cal., 51% (144 cal.) from fat; 5.8 g protein; 16 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 30 g carbo (2.9 g fiber); 87 mg sodium; 9.5 mg chol.

Tomato Mashed Potatoes

Follow recipe for Italian Mashed Potatoes (preceding), stirring 3/4 cup chopped drained oil-packed dried tomatoes into mixture in step 4.

Per serving: 307 cal., 47% (144 cal.) from fat; 7.2 g protein; 16 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 34 g carbo (4.3 g fiber); 95 mg sodium; 9.5 mg chol.

Creamy Onion and Garlic Mashed Potatoes

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: Stu Revak of Livermore, California, seasons fluffy mashed potatoes with sautéed onion and garlic. If making up to 1 day ahead, cool, cover, and chill. Reheat, covered, in a microwave-safe container in a microwave oven on full power (100%), stirring every 2 minutes, until hot, 5 to 7 minutes. Or bake, covered, in a shallow 1 1/2- to 2-quart casserole in a 325° oven (350° if baking with a turkey at that temperature), stirring once after 30 minutes, until hot in the center, 40 to 50 minutes total.

MAKES: 6 or 7 servings

1/3 cup chopped onion

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 pounds russet potatoes

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 to 2 tablespoons milk (optional)

Salt and pepper

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat, stir onion and garlic in oil until limp, about 5 minutes. Scrape into a small bowl.

2. Pour 1 quart water into the 5- to 6-quart pan (no need to wash pan) and bring to a boil over high heat.

3. Peel and rinse potatoes; cut into 1-inch chunks. Add potatoes to boiling water; cover and return to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until potatoes mash easily, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain potatoes and return to pan.

4. Add onion mixture, sour cream, mayonnaise, cream, and butter to potatoes. Mash with a potato masher or an electric mixer until mixture is as lumpy or smooth as you like, gradually beating in enough of the milk to reach desired consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 328 cal., 55% (180 cal.) from fat; 4.4 g protein; 20 g fat (7.3 g sat.); 34 g carbo (3.1 g fiber); 104 mg sodium; 30 mg chol.

SAVORY SIDE DISHES

Southwestern Roasted Green Beans, Asian Sesame Roasted Green Beans

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes NOTES: This dish comes from Barnie Barnick of Colorado Springs.

MAKES: 8 servings

2 1/2 pounds green beans

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/3 cup pine nuts or slivered almonds

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

About 1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Salt

1. Rinse and drain beans; trim and discard stem ends. In each of two 12- by 17-inch baking pans, mix half the beans with half the oil; spread level.

2. Bake in a 450° regular or convection oven until beans are tender when pierced and slightly browned, 15 to 25 minutes; switch pan positions halfway through baking.

3. Stir half the nuts and butter into beans in each pan; continue baking until nuts are golden, 5 to 6 minutes longer. Pour into a bowl, add 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and mix well. Taste, and add more cayenne and salt if desired.

Per serving: 97 cal., 59% (57 cal.) from fat; 3.7 g protein; 6.3 g fat (1.6 g sat.); 9.8 g carbo (2.9 g fiber); 22 mg sodium; 3.9 mg chol.

Asian Sesame Roasted Green Beans

Follow recipe for Southwest Roasted Green Beans, but substitute 2 tablespoons sesame seeds for the pine nuts and 1 tablespoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil for the butter; bake until sesame seeds are golden, about 5 minutes. Omit cayenne and add soy sauce to taste.

TRIMMINGS Savory Gravy And: Baked Cranberry-Orange Sauce

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 1/2 hours

NOTES: If preparing through step 4 up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill. After turkey roasts, continue with step 5.

MAKES: 1 1/2 to 2 quarts; 10 to 12 servings

Giblets and neck from a 14- to 23-pound turkey

2 onions (12 oz. total), peeled and quartered

2 carrots (8 oz. total), peeled and cut into chunks

3/4 cup sliced celery

1 1/2 quarts fat-skimmed chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup cornstarch

Spice-rubbed or other Roast Turkey

Salt

1. Rinse giblets and neck (chill liver airtight to add later, save for other uses, or discard). In a 5- to 6-quart pan, combine giblets, neck, onions, carrots, celery, and 1 cup water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Uncover and stir often over high heat until liquid has evaporated and giblets and vegetables are browned and begin to stick to pan, 12 to 15 minutes longer.

2. Add 1 quart broth and pepper; stir to scrape browned bits free. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until gizzard is tender when pierced, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. If desired, add liver; cook 10 minutes longer.

3. Pour broth through a fine strainer into a bowl. Measure and, if needed, add water to make 1 quart. Discard vegetables. If desired for gravy, pull meat off neck and finely chop, along with giblets and liver; otherwise discard neck, giblets, and liver.

4. In the 5- to 6-quart pan (no need to wash), blend cornstarch with 1/3 cup water until smooth. Add the 1 quart broth, plus the chopped neck meat, giblets, and liver if using. Stir over high heat until boiling, 3 to 5 minutes.

5. When turkey is done, remove rack and bird from pan; skim off and discard fat from pan juices. Add remaining 2 cups broth to roasting pan and stir over low heat, scraping browned bits free. Add mixture to gravy and stir over high heat until boiling. Add salt to taste.

Per 1/2 cup without giblets and neck meat: 43 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 4.1 g protein; 0 g fat; 6.1 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 43 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Wine Gravy

Follow recipe for Savory Gravy (preceding), but in step 5 replace the last 2 cups broth with 2 cups Chardonnay or other dry white wine, tawny port, dry sherry, or dry madeira.

Baked Cranberry-Orange Sauce

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

NOTES: Serve this cranberry sauce as a relish with the turkey or use it on the Cranberry Crown Cheesecake.

MAKES: About 2 cups; 8 to 12 servings

1. Sort 1 package (12 oz.) fresh or thawed frozen cranberries, discarding any bruised or decayed fruit. Rinse and drain berries.

2. In an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish, mix cranberries, 1 1/4 cups sugar, 1/2 cup orange-flavor liqueur (or orange juice), and 1 teaspoon grated orange peel.

3. Bake, uncovered, in a 350° regular or convection oven, stirring occasionally, until berries are tender when pierced and juices are syrupy, about 1 hour. Serve warm or cool.

Per 1.4 cup: 160 cal., 0.6% (0.9 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 41 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 0.7 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Cheese torta goes low-fat Yogurt Cheese

One appetizer recipe repeatedly requested by readers is for a cheese torta - a layered spread that food editor Jerry Di Vecchio developed in the mid-1970s to replicate versions she had tasted in Italy made of mascarpone, an ultrarich (and then hard to find) Italian cream cheese. It was striking, delicious - and high in fat.

Now we offer a lighter alternative, a cheese torta with the same stylish good looks but a fraction of the fat. We've replaced the buttery mascarpone with fresh, tangy cheese made from nonfat yogurt. You simply drain the yogurt until what's left is thick and smooth. Yogurt cheese can be used just as you would cream cheese, in these tortas as well as in our festive cheesecake.

Yogurt Cheese Torta with Pesto

PREP TIME: About 15 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to chill

NOTES: Make the Yogurt Cheese (below) at least 24 hours before making the torta; layer the cheese with pesto at least 1 hour or up to 1 day before serving.

MAKES: 8 to 12 servings

1 1/3 to 1 3/4 cups Yogurt Cheese (3/4 to 1 lb.; see notes)

1/2 to 3/4 cup Cilantro Pesto or Tomato Tapenade (below)

Fresh cilantro or basil sprigs (optional), rinsed

Thin baguette slices

1. Line a wide-mouth, 2- to 3-cup noncorrosive container with two smooth layers of cheesecloth or a clean, dry muslin or linen towel.

2. Press a fourth of the Yogurt Cheese evenly over bottom of container. Spread a third of the pesto evenly over cheese to edges of container. Repeat steps to layer remaining cheese and pesto, ending with cheese. Fold edges of cloth over cheese and press gently to compact. Cover airtight and chill until firm, at least 1 hour or up to 1 day; occasionally uncover and tilt container to pour off any accumulated liquid.

3. Fold back cloth; invert a plate over torta and then, holding plate and container together, invert torta onto plate. Peel off cloth. If desired, garnish with cilantro sprigs. Serve with baguette slices.

Per serving: 38 cal., 37% (14 cal.) from fat; 3.4 g protein; 1.6 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 2.7 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 30 mg sodium; 0.5 mg chol.

Mascarpone Torta with Pesto

PREP TIME: About 20 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to chill

NOTES: Look for mascarpone in specialty cheese shops, well-stocked supermarkets, and Italian delis.

MAKES: 8 to 12 servings

Follow recipe for Yogurt Cheese Torta with Pesto (above), but substitute mascarpone or cream cheese, at room temperature, for the yogurt cheese. In a bowl, beat the cheese with an electric mixer on medium speed until soft and spreadable before layering with pesto in step 2; omit pouring off liquid.

Per serving: 142 cal., 89% (126 cal.) from fat; 2.8 g protein; 14 g fat (8.7 g sat.); 1.6 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 28 mg sodium; 24 mg chol.

Yogurt Cheese

PREP TIME: About 5 minutes, plus 24 hours to 4 days to drain

NOTES: Don't use a brand of yogurt made with gelatin (check the ingredient list on the carton)--it won't drain. Drain the yogurt at least 24 hours before using; the longer you drain it, the thicker and creamier the cheese will be but the less you will get (the volume of cheese also varies with brand of yogurt used). Use this nonfat cheese to make the Yogurt Cheese Torta with Pesto (page 162) and the Cranberry Crown Cheesecake (page 188). Chill airtight up to 9 days from when you began draining it; occasionally drain off any whey that accumulates. Discard cheese if moldy or sour-smelling.

MAKES: 1 1/3 to 1 3/4 cups cheese (about 3/4 to 1 lb.)

1. Set a strainer or colander over a deep pan or bowl, supporting it so base of strainer is at least 2 inches above pan bottom. Line strainer with two layers of cheesecloth or a clean muslin or linen towel.

2. Scrape 1 quart (2 lb.) plain nonfat yogurt (without gelatin; see notes) into cloth. Enclose strainer and pan airtight in plastic wrap.

3. Chill at least 24 hours or up to 4 days (see notes), pouring off liquid (the whey) as it accumulates.

4. Unwrap yogurt cheese and scrape from cloth.

Per tablespoon: 9.4 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 1.3 g protein; 0 g fat; 1 g carbo (0 g fiber); 7.9 mg sodium; 0.2 mg chol.

Cilantro Pesto

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Use in one of the cheese tortas (beginning on page 162) or mix with 3 tablespoons olive oil and serve as a spread for bread.

MAKES: 1/2 to 2/3 cup

In a food processor, whirl 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, 1/3 cup salted roasted peanuts, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot chili flakes, and 1/2 to 1 teaspoon chopped garlic. (Or with a knife, mince cilantro, nuts, chili, and garlic.) Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per tablespoon: 28 cal., 79% (22 cal.) from fat; 1.3 g protein; 2.4 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 1 g carbo (0.5 g fiber); 21 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Tomato Tapenade

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: Use in one of the cheese tortas (beginning on page 162) or mix with 3 tablespoons olive oil and serve as a spread for bread.

MAKES: About 3/4 cup

1. In a bowl, cover 1 ounce (3/4 to 1 cup) dried tomatoes with boiling water. Let stand until soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir 3 tablespoons pine nuts or slivered almonds until golden, about 5 minutes.

3. Drain tomatoes; squeeze out and discard excess liquid. In a food processor, whirl tomatoes, nuts, 3 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves or 1 teaspoon dry basil, and 1 peeled clove garlic until finely chopped. (Or with a knife, mince tomatoes, nuts, basil, and garlic; put in a bowl and mix in cheese.) Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per tablespoon: 26 cal., 54% (14 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 1.6 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 1.9 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); 31 mg sodium; 1.2 mg chol.

DRESSED FOR DINNER

Roasted Cauliflower with Capers and Bread Crumbs

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

2 heads cauliflower (about 3 lb.)

1/4 cup olive oil

About 1/4 teaspoon salt

4 slices (about 3 by 4 in. and 1/2 in. thick) Italian-style white bread such as pane pugliese

1 clove garlic, peeled

6 canned anchovy fillets, drained

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons drained capers

1 teaspoon hot chili flakes

1. Rinse cauliflower; cut into quarters. Cut off and discard leaves and cores; cut quarters into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices.

2. In a 12- by 17-inch baking pan, mix cauliflower with olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Spoon half the mixture into another 12- by 17-inch pan and spread mixture in both pans level.

3. Roast in a 450° regular or convection oven until cauliflower is browned on the edges and tender when pierced, 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, toast bread slices. Rub one side of each with garlic clove; discard any remaining garlic. Let bread cool, then tear into 1-inch chunks. In a food processor or blender, whirl to coarse crumbs.

5. In a large bowl, mash anchovies with lemon juice to a coarse paste. Add cauliflower, parsley, capers, hot chili flakes, and bread crumbs, and mix. Add salt to taste.

Per serving: 143 cal., 63% (90 cal.) from fat; 3.9 g protein; 10 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 11 g carbo (2.6 g fiber); 444 mg sodium; 2.2 mg chol.

Beets with Orange Vinaigrette

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

4 pounds beets (about 3 bunches)

1 tablespoon grated orange peel

1/4 cup orange juice

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

Salt and pepper

1. Trim and discard tops and root ends from beets. Rinse beets, peel, and cut crosswise into 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick slices.

2. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 1 inch of water to a boil. Place beets on a rack over water, cover pan, reduce heat, and steam until beets are tender when pierced, about 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix orange peel, orange juice, vinegar, olive oil, and tarragon. Remove beets from steaming rack and add to bowl. Mix gently to coat. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 137 cal., 31% (43 cal.) from fat; 3.1 g protein; 4.8 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 22 g carbo (2 g fiber); 146 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Roasted Broccoli Rabe and Radicchio with Lemon

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

1 1/4 pounds broccoli rabe

1 head radicchio (about 8 oz.)

1 lemon (about 5 oz.)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 ounce thin-sliced pancetta or bacon, chopped

About 1/4 teaspoon salt

Pepper

1. Rinse and drain broccoli rabe; cut diagonally into 2-inch lengths. Rinse and drain radicchio; core and cut head lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Rinse and dry lemon; cut in half lengthwise, then thinly slice crosswise, discarding ends and seeds.

2. In a 12- by 17-inch baking pan, mix broccoli rabe, radicchio, lemon, olive oil, pancetta, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Transfer half the mixture into another 12- by 17-inch baking pan and spread mixture in both pans level.

3. Roast in a 400° regular or convection oven until broccoli rabe is tender when pierced and radicchio is wilted, about 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 96 cal., 70% (67 cal.) from fat; 3.4 g protein; 7.4 g fat (1.6 g sat.); 7.3 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 153 mg sodium; 3.2 mg chol.

OVERNIGHT SUCCESSES

Chocolate-Caramel Trifle with Raspberries

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours, plus at least 2 hours to chill

NOTES: Make and cool pastry cream while cake bakes and cools. For a nonalcoholic version, substitute a hazelnut- or raspberry-flavor syrup (such as Torani, available in most well-stocked supermarkets) for the liqueur; the trifle will be somewhat sweeter.

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

About 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, at room temperature

About 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup milk

3/4cup hazelnut- or coffee-flavor liqueur (see notes)

Caramel Pastry Cream (recipe follows)

1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries (6 oz.), rinsed and drained

1. Butter and flour a 9-inch square baking pan.

2. Coarsely chop 3 ounces of the chocolate and place in a microwave-safe bowl. Heat in a microwave oven on full power (100%), stirring every 30 seconds, until melted and smooth, about 1 1/2 minutes total.

3. In a large bowl, with a mixer on medium-high speed, beat 1/2 cup butter and the sugar until fluffy. Add eggs and vanilla and beat until well blended. Stir in melted chocolate.

4. In another bowl, mix 1 1/2 cups flour, baking soda, and salt. Add flour mixture and milk to butter mixture, stir to combine, then beat until well blended. Scrape batter into prepared pan and spread level.

5. Bake in a 350° regular or convec-tion oven until cake begins to pull from pan sides, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cake cool to room temperature in pan on a rack, about 1 1/2 hours.

6. Run a thin knife between cake and pan sides and invert onto a board to release. Cut cake into 1- to 1 1/2-inch cubes. Layer a third of the cubes in the bottom of a 3- to 3 1/2-quart trifle bowl or other straight-sided glass bowl. Drizzle 1/4 cup liqueur evenly over cake. Spoon a third of the Caramel Pastry Cream over cake and spread level. Repeat to make two more layers each of cake, liqueur, and pastry cream, ending with pastry cream. Cover and chill at least 2 hours or up to 1 day.

7. Finely chop remaining 1 ounce chocolate or scrape into curls. Arrange raspberries on trifle and sprinkle chocolate evenly over berries. Scoop onto dessert plates to serve.

Per serving: 669 cal., 40% (270 cal.) from fat; 8.6 g protein; 30 g fat (18 g sat.); 88 g carbo (2 g fiber); 379 mg sodium; 205 mg chol.

Caramel Pastry Cream

PREP AND COOK TIME: 45 to 50 minutes, plus 30 minutes to chill

MAKES: About 5 cups

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 2/3 cups milk

4 large egg yolks

1/4 cup cornstarch

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

1. In a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, tilt and stir sugar until melted and amber-colored, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour onto a sheet of foil (about 12 by 18 in.) and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. Peel off foil and break caramel into chunks; put in a food processor or blender and whirl into a fine powder.

2. Combine milk and caramel powder in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan; stir over medium heat just until caramel is dissolved (it will form lumps, then melt; do not boil), 9 to 10 minutes.

3. In a small bowl, beat egg yolks to blend. Add cornstarch and whisk until smooth. Pour about 1/2 cup of the hot milk mixture into yolks and whisk until blended, then whisk yolk mixture into pan and stir over medium-high heat just until mixture boils and thickens, 3 to 4 minutes.

4. Rub pastry cream through a fine strainer set over a bowl; discard residue. Cover pastry cream and chill about 1 hour, or nest bowl in ice water and stir until cool, about 30 minutes.

5. In a large bowl, with a mixer on high speed, beat the whipping cream until it holds soft peaks. Gently stir the whipped cream into the cool pastry cream.

Per 1/2 cup: 296 cal., 46% (135 cal.) from fat; 4 g protein; 15 g fat (8.9 g sat.); 37 g carbo (0 g fiber); 48 mg sodium; 134 mg chol.

EARTHY DELIGHTS

Mushroom-Herb Risotto

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 50 minutes

NOTES: Use a combination of two or three types of mushrooms, such as black or yellow chanterelles, crimini, oyster, shiitake, or common. High-quality parmesan cheese is worth the expense in this dish. Garnish servings with curls of the cheese if desired. MAKES: 8 cups; about 4 main-dish servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onion

1 1/2 pounds fresh mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced

1 1/2 cups arborio or medium-grain white rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

About 4 1/2 cups fat-skimmed reduced-sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup shredded parmesan cheese or other dry Italian cheese

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

Salt and pepper

1. Pour oil into a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat; when hot, add onion and mushrooms and stir often until onion is limp and liquid has evaporated, 5 to 6 minutes. Add rice and stir until opaque, about 3 minutes.

2. Add wine and stir until it's absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 4 1/2 cups broth and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. Reduce heat and, stirring often, simmer until rice is tender to bite, 15 to 20 minutes. If a creamier consistency is desired, stir in about 1/2 cup more broth. Stir in cheese, parsley, sage, tarragon, and thyme. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 423 cal., 23% (99 cal.) from fat; 18g protein; 11 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 62 g carbo (6.3 g fiber); 939 mg sodium; 9.6 mg chol.

Mushroom Pâté

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes, plus 1 day to chill

NOTES: Mirka Hodur, a San Francisco Bay Area caterer, got the recipe for this pâté from restaurateur Bob Goldberg. She serves it on thin, toasted slices of bread, topped with chopped calamata olives and fresh thyme leaves. It's also delicious on crackers or plain baguette slices. Make pâté one day before serving.

MAKES: 2 cups

1 onion (about 4 oz.), peeled and quartered

1 clove garlic, peeled

3/4 pound crimini mushrooms, cleaned and quartered

6 tablespoons butter

3/4 teaspoon ground thyme

About 1 teaspoon salt

1 cup almonds

1. In a food processor, whirl onion and garlic, pulsing on and off, until very finely chopped. Scrape into a bowl. Add half the mushrooms to processor and pulse until finely chopped (take care not to purée); scrape into bowl with onion mixture. Repeat to finely chop remaining mushrooms and scrape into bowl.

2. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add mushroom-onion mixture, thyme, and 1 teaspoon salt; stir often until liquid has evaporated, about 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, spread almonds in an 8-inch square pan. Bake in a 350° regular or convection oven, shaking pan occasionally, until nuts are golden beneath skins, about 10 minutes. Pour into food processor. Whirl until nuts are as finely ground as possible. Stir into warm mushroom mixture.

4. Pack into a small bowl (at least 2 1/2-cup capacity) or two 1-cup ramekins; cover with plastic wrap. Chill overnight to blend flavors. Bring to room temperature and serve in bowl or ramekins.

Per serving: 47 cal., 83% (39 cal.) from fat; 1.1 g protein; 4.3 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 1.6 g carbo (0.6g fiber); 96 mg sodium; 5.8 mg chol.

Crab and Mushroom Strata

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

NOTES: To ensure enough bread slices, be careful not to cut thicker than 1/2 inch. If assembling strata through step 3 up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill; let chilled strata stand at room temperature for 15 minutes, then bake about 1 hour.

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 pounds fresh mushrooms, such as crimini, porcini, shiitake, or common (use one kind or a combination), cleaned and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons minced or pressed garlic

4 teaspoons sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

About 1/4 teaspoon salt

About 1/8 teaspoon pepper

6 large eggs

3 1/2 cups milk

1 loaf (1 lb.) day-old crusty sourdough bread, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch-thick slices (see notes), ends discarded

6 ounces shelled cooked crab, any bits of shell removed

1/3 cup chopped green onions, white and pale green parts only

2 cups shredded jack cheese (about 8 oz.)

1. Pour olive oil into a 12-inch frying pan or 14-inch wok over medium-high heat; when hot, add mushrooms and garlic and stir until mushrooms begin to brown and liquid has evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Add vinegar and thyme; cook, stirring often, to blend flavors, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Add salt and pepper to taste.

2. In a bowl, whisk eggs, milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper to blend.

3. Cover bottom of a 3-quart baking dish (such as 9 by 13 in., at least 2 in. deep) with bread slices, trimming if necessary to fit in a single layer. Spread half the mushroom mixture evenly over bread; top with all the crab and half the green onions. Sprinkle evenly with 1 cup cheese. Pour half the custard mixture evenly over cheese. Arrange another layer of bread on top (overlap slightly if desired; save any extra bread for other uses), followed by remaining mushroom mixture, green onions, and 1 cup cheese. Spoon remaining custard mixture evenly over the top. Let strata stand at room temperature about 15 minutes, or cover and chill.

4. Bake, uncovered, in a 350° regular or convection oven until center is set (cut to test) and top is well browned, 45 to 50 minutes. Cut into rectangles or scoop out with a large spoon to serve.

Per serving: 304 cal., 41% (126 cal.) from fat; 18 g protein; 14 g fat (6.2 g sat.); 26 g carbo (1.4 g fiber); 489 mg sodium; 150 mg chol.

Chili-painted Portabellas in Puff Pastry

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: This elegant appetizer is from Jack Czarnecki's A Cook's Book of Mushrooms. For the puréed chipotle chilies, whirl a 7-ounce can of chipotles with sauce in a blender until smooth. Measure 1 to 2 tablespoons, depending on desired heat; chill or freeze remainder for other uses. If assembling through step 3 up to 4 hours ahead, cover and chill; bake about 13 minutes.

MAKES: 4 first-course servings

1 sheet (10 in. square) frozen puff pastry (half of a 1-lb. package), thawed

2 tablespoons prepared oyster sauce

1 to 2 tablespoons puréed canned chipotle chilies

4 portabella mushrooms (3- to 4-in.-wide caps; 10 to 12 oz. total), cleaned, stems trimmed flush with caps

1 large egg

1. Unfold puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured board; cut into quarters, each 5 inches square. Roll each slightly into a 6-inch square.

2. In a small bowl, mix oyster sauce and puréed chipotle chilies. Brush mixture generously over both sides of mushroom caps, using it all.

3. Center each cap, gill side up, on a puff pastry square. Fold corners of pastry over mushroom to enclose, overlapping slightly; press edges together to seal. Set bundles, seams down and slightly apart, on a 12- by 15-inch baking sheet lined with cooking parchment.

4. In a small bowl, beat egg to blend with 1 tablespoon water. Brush tops and sides of pastry bundles lightly with egg mixture (discard extra). With a small, sharp knife, cut 3 or 4 slits (each about 1/4 in. long) through pastry across top of each bundle.

5. Bake in a 425° regular or convection oven until puff pastry is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Serve warm.

Per serving: 370 cal., 56% (207 cal.) from fat; 8.5 g protein; 23 g fat (3.5 g sat.); 33 g carbo (2.1 g fiber); 551 mg sodium; 53 mg chol.

Salmon and Chanterelles Baked in Parchment

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes NOTES: To clean leeks, cut in half lengthwise and flip layers under cold running water to flush out grit. Hedgehog and oyster mushrooms also work well in this dish.

MAKES: 4 servings

1 cup thinly sliced leeks (about 4 oz.), white and pale green parts only

4 pieces boned, skinned salmon fillet (about 6 oz. each)

1/2 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/4 cup dry white wine

Salt and pepper

1. Cut four 13- by 15-inch rectangles of cooking parchment or foil. Fold each rectangle in half crosswise; starting from fold, cut out a half-heart 7 inches wide and 13 inches long. Open each and lay flat. Divide leeks equally among hearts, mounding them on one half of each.

2. Rinse salmon and pat dry. Place one piece on each mound of leeks. Top equally with chanterelles. Drizzle each stack with 1/2 teaspoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon wine; sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.

3. Fold bare half of each parchment heart over fish and vegetable stack so that cut edges meet evenly. Fold and pleat packet edges to seal: Starting at top of heart, fold a 1/2-inch section of edge up and in; holding this section down, fold next section up and in, slightly overlapping first to form a pleat. Continue folding and pleating edge until you reach bottom of heart; twist point to secure. Transfer packets to a 14- by 16-inch baking sheet.

4. Bake in a 400° regular or convection oven until a thermometer inserted through parchment into center of fish reaches 140°, about 10 minutes.

5. Place each packet on a dinner plate. Open at the table, taking care to avoid steam. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 380 cal., 50% (189 cal.) from fat; 37 g protein; 21 g fat (4 g sat.); 7.6 g carbo (1.7 g fiber); 124 mg sodium; 100 mg chol.

Cheese straw comeback Two-Tone Puff Straws Pastry Straws

A favorite party nibble takes on new shapes and flavors

By Linda Lau Anusasananan

With the return of the cocktail party comes the rebirth of that old-fashioned appetizer, the cheese straw. Slender, crisp wands of pastry, cheese straws make the perfect companion to a martini or a glass of wine.

But think of classic cheddar - albeit tasty - only for starters. These sticks take well to many flavors, from savory to sweet. We've twisted tomato-basil straws, rolled out curry-seasoned ones, and spritzed blue cheese versions, from homemade pastry, purchased puff pastry, and butter-rich cookie dough. The mildly sweet variations are at home paired with cheeses. The sugar-crusted straws turn ice cream or fruit into a lively dessert.

Two-Tone Puff Straws

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: If making up to two days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

MAKES: 14 straws

1 sheet puff pastry (half of a 17.3-oz. package), at room temperature

1 large egg, beaten to blend

Seasoning mix (scroll down)

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt or 1 tablespoon coarse sugar

1. Unfold pastry sheet; lay flat on a lightly floured board. Roll into a 1/16-inch-thick rectangle (10 by 14 in.); cut in half crosswise. Lightly brush both halves with egg. Sprinkle one evenly with seasoning mix. Set remaining half, egg side down, over seasoned half, aligning edges. Gently roll to seal layers without enlarging rectangle.

2. Cut rectangle lengthwise into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Brush tops lightly with more egg; save remaining egg for other uses or discard. Sprinkle strips evenly with salt (or sugar if using a sweet seasoning mix); with your hand, press lightly into surface of puff pastry.

3. One at a time, pick up strips by both ends, twist in opposite directions, and transfer to buttered 12- by 15-inch baking sheets (you'll need two), placing strips about 1 1/2 inches apart. Press ends onto sheets. (See photo below.)

4. Bake salt-crusted straws in a 400° regular or convection oven (sugar-crusted ones at 350°) until crisp and lightly browned, 8 to 13 minutes (14 to 20 minutes for sweet), switching pan positions halfway through baking. Let straws cool about 1 minute on sheets, then, with a wide spatula, loosen while still warm and transfer to rack (if straws stick, return pans briefly to oven to reheat). Serve warm or cool.

MEXICAN CHEESE SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 1/2 cup finely shredded Mexican cheese blend or cheddar cheese, 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, and 1 teaspoon chili powder.

Per straw: 119 cal., 64% (76 cal.) from fat; 2.6 g protein; 8.4 g fat (1.9 g sat.); 8.1 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 237 mg sodium; 17 mg chol.

TOMATO-BASIL SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese, 2 tablespoons finely chopped drained dried tomatoes in oil, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, and 1 teaspoon dried basil.

Per straw: 114 cal., 61% (69 cal.) from fat; 2.5 g protein; 7.7 g fat (1.3 g sat.); 8.8 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 241 mg sodium; 15 mg chol.

CINNAMON-NUT SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 1/3 cup finely chopped pecans, 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon.

Per straw: 126 cal., 62% (78 cal.) from fat; 1.9 g protein; 8.7 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 10 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 48 mg sodium; 14 mg chol.

COCONUT-ORANGE SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 1/3 cup sweetened flaked or shredded dried coconut, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon grated orange peel, and 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger.

Per straw: 115 cal., 59% (68 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 7.6 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 10 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 52 mg sodium; 14 mg chol.

Pastry Straws

PREP AND COOK TIME: 50 to 60 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 3 days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

MAKES: About 4 dozen straws

About 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

Seasoning mix (scroll down)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) cold butter or margarine, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon sesame seeds or coarse sugar

1 large egg, beaten to blend

1. In a food processor or bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups flour (1 1/4 cups if using Cornmeal-Parmesan Seasoning Mix), seasoning mix, RECIPES FOR THE SUNSET HOLIDAY MENU - 2001

Golden Spritz Straws

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 3 days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

MAKES: 20 to 24 straws

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, at room temperature

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 large egg

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon coarse sugar

1. In a bowl, with a mixer on high speed, beat butter and granulated sugar until creamy. Add egg; beat until well blended. Stir in flour, then beat until well blended.

2. Scrape dough into a cookie press fitted with a rosette or star-shaped tip (1/2 in. across widest dimension). Press dough through tip in straight lines 6 to 8 inches long onto 12- by 15-inch baking sheets (you'll need two), spacing about 1 1/2 inches apart. Sprinkle spritz straws with coarse sugar.

3. Bake in a 350° regular or 325° convection oven until straws are golden brown, 12 to 19 minutes, switching pan positions halfway through baking. With a wide spatula, transfer straws to racks to cool. Serve warm or cool.

Per straw: 73 cal., 51% (37 cal.) from fat; 1.0 g protein; 4.1 g fat (2.5 g sat.); 8.2 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 42 mg sodium; 19 mg chol.

Blue Cheese Spritz Straws

Follow recipe for Golden Spritz Straws (preceding), but reduce butter to 1/3 cup, replace granulated sugar with 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese (2 1/2 oz.), and replace coarse sugar with 2 tablespoons finely chopped almonds.

Per straw: 64 cal., 56% (36 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 4 g fat (2.2 g sat.); 5.2 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 70 mg sodium; 18 mg chol.

Gingersnap Spritz Straws

Follow recipe for Golden Spritz Straws (preceding), but substitute 1 large egg yolk and 3 tablespoons light molasses for the egg, and add 2 teaspoons ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice to the flour. Bake until edges turn slightly darker.

Per straw: 80 cal., 46% (37 cal.) from fat; 0.8 g protein; 4.1 g fat (2.5 g sat.); 10 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 41 mg sodium; 19 mg chol.

PASTRY STRAW SEASONINGS

CLASSIC CHEDDAR SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 3/4 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne.

Per straw: 42 cal., 57% (24 cal.) from fat; 1.0 g protein; 2.7 g fat (1.6 g sat.); 3.4 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 56 mg sodium; 11 mg chol.

CURRY SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons curry powder and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne.

Per straw: 36 cal., 53% (19 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 2.1 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 3.5 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 45 mg sodium; 8.8 mg chol.

CORNMEAL-PARMESAN SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese, 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal, and 2 teaspoons Italian seasoning (or 1 teaspoon each dried basil and dried oregano).

Per straw: 40 cal., 55% (22 cal.) from fat; 0.9 g protein; 2.4 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 3.5 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 61 mg sodium; 9.4 mg chol.

LEMON-ANISE SEASONING MIX. In a small bowl, mix 1/3 cup granulated sugar, 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel, and 1 1/2 teaspoons anise seeds.

Per straw: 41 cal., 44% (18 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 2 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 5.1 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 45 mg sodium; 8.8 mg chol.

Lime Sorbet

PREP TIME: About 35 minutes, plus about 45 minutes to chill

MAKES: About 1 quart

4 or 5 limes (about 2 1/2 in. wide), rinsed

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons orange-flavor liqueur (optional)

1. With a vegetable peeler, pare green part of peel from four limes. Put peel and sugar in a food processor and whirl until peel is very finely chopped.

2. Cut limes in half; ream enough juice to make 1 cup. Add to sugar mixture and whirl until sugar is melted. Cover mixture and chill until cold, about 45 minutes.

3. Pour lime-sugar mixture through a fine strainer into an ice cream maker (1-qt. or larger capacity), then pour 3 cups ice water through strainer into maker; add orange-flavor liqueur. Freeze according to manufacturer's directions until dasher is hard to turn or machine stops, about 25 minutes.

4. Serve softly frozen, or cover and freeze to store longer. If frozen hard, let stand at room temperature until soft enough to scoop, 10 to 20 minutes. If desired, cut one lime into thin slices (discard ends) and garnish portions with slices.

Per 1/2 cup: 106 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 0 g fat (0 g sat.); 28 g carbo (0 g fiber); 0.7 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Cranberry Crown Cheesecake Persimmon-glazed Cheesecake

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours, plus at least 2 1/2 hours to cool.

NOTES: For the Yogurt Cheese, drain 2 1/2 to 3 quarts nonfat yogurt at least 24 hours. If using cream cheese, omit the gelatin and step 3; in step 4, beat in the liqueur and vanilla until smooth, then beat in eggs.

MAKES: 12 servings

1 cup graham cracker crumbs

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

1 1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons orange-flavor liqueur or orange juice

2 teaspoons vanilla

3 cups Yogurt Cheese or cream cheese

1 cup sugar

4 large eggs

1 1/2 to 2 cups cool Baked Cranberry-Orange Sauce

1. In a 9-inch cheesecake pan with removable rim (at least 1 3/4 in. tall), mix graham cracker crumbs and butter. Pat mixture evenly over bottom and about 1/2 inch up sides of pan.

2. Bake crust in a 350° regular or convection oven until slightly browner, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. In a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan, mix gelatin with 2 tablespoons cold water; let stand until softened, about 1 minute. Stir over medium heat until gelatin is dissolved, about 45 seconds. Remove from heat and stir in liqueur and vanilla.

4. In a large bowl, with a mixer on medium speed, beat cheese, sugar, and gelatin mixture until smooth. Beat in eggs, one at a time, until smoothly blended. Pour mixture into hot or cool crust.

5. Bake cheesecake in a 325° regular or 300° convection oven until center jiggles only slightly when pan is gently shaken, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool cake on a rack for about 30 minutes, then chill, uncovered, until cold, at least 2 hours. Serve, or cover airtight and chill up to 1 day.

6. Just before serving, lightly blot any moisture from surface of cake with a paper towel. Spread cranberry sauce evenly over cake. Remove pan rim and cut cake into wedges.

Per serving with yogurt cheese: 259 cal., 15% (39 cal.) from fat; 7.9 g protein; 4.3 g fat (1.8 g sat.); 48 g carbo (1 g fiber); 116 mg sodium; 77 mg chol.

Per serving with cream cheese: 419 cal., 52% (216 cal.) from fat; 6.9 g protein; 24 g fat (14 g sat.); 45 g carbo (1 g fiber); 251 mg sodium; 138 mg chol.

Persimmon-glazed Cheesecake

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 2 3/4 hours to cool

NOTES: Hachiya persimmons need to be as soft as jelly for this glaze. If they're too firm, let them stand at room temperature for a few days until fully ripe.

MAKES: 12 servings

Follow recipe for Cranberry Crown Cheesecake (above), but instead of the Baked Cranberry-Orange Sauce, spread the following glaze over the cool or cold cake: Rinse 2 or 3 soft-ripe Hachiya persimmons (each 2 1/2 to 3 in. wide, about 1 1/2 lb. total; see notes above). Cut them in half and scoop out the soft flesh; discard stems and peels.

In a blender or food processor, whirl flesh until puréed (you need 1 1/2 cups; save any extra for other uses). In a 1- to 2-quart pan, mix 1 tablespoon sugar with 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch.

Add the 1 1/2 cups persimmon purée and stir over medium heat until mixture boils and thickens, about 4 minutes. Nest pan in a bowl of ice water and stir mixture until it's cool but still fluid, about 3 minutes. Immediately spread evenly over cool or cold cheesecake. Chill until firm, at least 15 minutes. Cover cheesecake when glaze is set.

Per serving: 244 cal., 17% (41 cal.) from fat; 8.2 g protein; 4.5 g fat (1.8 g sat.); 44 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 116 mg sodium; 77 mg chol.

Pumpkin Ice Cream Torte with Ginger Crust Candied Walnuts

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus 5 hours to freeze

NOTES: For the smoothest texture, use a rich, full-fat ice cream. To soften slightly, heat it in the carton in a microwave oven at half power (50%) for 15 to 30 seconds.

MAKES: 12 servings

8 ounces crisp gingersnap cookies

2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

1 can (15 oz.) pumpkin, chilled

2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice

About 1 1/4 cups caramel ice cream topping

1 quart vanilla ice cream, softened (see notes)

About 1 cup hot fudge sauce or chocolate ice cream topping

Candied Walnuts (recipe follows)

1. Place about a third of the cookies in a zip-lock plastic bag, seal bag, and roll with a rolling pin until cookies are finely crushed; pour into a 9-inch cheesecake pan with removable rim (at least 2 in. tall). Repeat to crush remaining cookies (you need 1 3/4 cups total) and pour into pan. Add sugar and butter and mix. Press cookie mixture over bottom and about 1 inch up sides of pan.

2. Bake crust in a 325° regular or convection oven until lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool about 5 minutes, then chill or freeze until cold, 5 to 10 minutes.

3. In a chilled large bowl, mix pumpkin, pumpkin pie spice, and 1/4 cup of the caramel topping until smooth. Add ice cream and mix until blended.

4. Working quickly, spoon about a third of the ice cream mixture into the cold crust. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons caramel topping and 2 tablespoons fudge sauce (if fudge sauce is too stiff, warm slightly in a microwave oven at full power [100%], stirring once, just until fluid, 15 to 30 seconds); sprinkle half the Candied Walnuts on top. Repeat with two more layers, omitting nuts on the top layer. Freeze until solid, about 5 hours, then cover and freeze up to 1 week.

5. About 15 minutes before serving, remove sides from pan, set torte on a serving plate, and let stand in refrigerator to soften slightly. Cut into wedges. Serve with additional caramel topping and fudge sauce (warm and stir again if too stiff) to add to taste.

Per serving: 495 cal., 38% (189 cal.) from fat; 5.9 g protein; 21 g fat (9.1 g sat.); 77 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 339 mg sodium; 38 mg chol.

Candied Walnuts

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 5 minutes, plus about 7 minutes to cool

NOTES: Use these sweet nuts in the Pumpkin Ice Cream Torte (preceding) or sprinkle on salads or ice cream. If making Candied Walnuts up to 2 days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature.

MAKES: About 1 cup

In a heavy 8- to 10-inch frying pan, combine 6 tablespoons sugar and 2/3 cup walnut or pecan pieces (about 1/2 in.). Shake and stir often over medium-high heat until sugar is melted and amber-colored, about 5 minutes. Pour onto a piece of foil and spread into a thin layer. Let cool until hard, about 7 minutes. Break into small pieces.

Per 2 tablespoons: 101 cal., 55% (56 cal.) from fat; 1.4 g protein; 6.2 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 11 g carbo (0.5 g fiber); 1.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Harvest Apple Pie with Hazelnut Streusel

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 hours, plus at least 1 1/2 hours to cool

NOTES: If desired, substitute a homemade pastry for the purchased one. To save time, you can slice the apples (peeled, cored, and quartered) in a food processor. If making pie up to 1 day ahead, cool, cover, and chill. If desired, reheat, uncovered, in a 325° oven 20 to 25 minutes.

MAKES: About 8 servings

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

1/2 cup chopped dried cherries

1/4 cup rum or orange juice

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon ground coriander

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

6 cups thinly sliced peeled Granny Smith apples (about 2 lb.; see notes above)

1 purchased refrigerated pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie (half of a 15-oz. package), at room temperature

About 1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

6 tablespoons cold butter or margarine, cut into chunks

1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts

1. In a bowl, mix apricots, cherries, and rum; let stand until fruit is slightly softened, 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix granulated sugar, cornstarch, coriander, ginger, cinnamon, and apples. Stir in dried-fruit mixture.

3. Ease pastry gently into a 9-inch pie pan, fold edge under itself flush with rim, and flute decoratively. Mound apple mixture in crust.

4. In a food processor or a bowl, whirl or stir 1 cup flour and the brown sugar until well blended. Add butter and whirl or rub in with your fingers until mixture forms coarse crumbs. Stir in nuts and whirl until coarsely chopped, or chop nuts with a knife and stir into flour mixture. Squeeze handfuls of the streusel until it sticks together, then crumble into chunks evenly over apple mixture. Set pie on a foil-lined rimmed baking pan.

5. Bake on the bottom rack of a 350° regular or convection oven until filling is bubbling around the edges, about 1 1/4 hours. If pie becomes brown too quickly, cover the dark portions loosely with foil. Cool on a rack at least 1 1/2 hours.

Per serving: 490 cal., 37% (180 cal.) from fat; 3.1 g protein; 20 g fat (8.6 g sat.); 77 g carbo (3.8 g fiber); 190 mg sodium; 28 mg chol.

Double-Lemon Sherbet Lime Sorbet

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus at least 2 hours to freeze

NOTES: This sherbet comes from Linda Wisner of Portland. It has a wonderful floral quality if made with lemon verbena and Meyer lemons (available in some farmers' markets), but it's also very good made with lemon grass and regular lemons. Up to an hour before serving, scoop sherbet, set scoops in a single layer in a cold metal pan, and freeze.

MAKES: 1 quart; 8 servings

2 1/2 ounces fresh lemon grass (about 2 stalks) or 2/3 cup lightly packed lemon verbena leaves, rinsed

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons grated lemon peel

1/3 cup lemon juice

1 1/3 cups buttermilk

2/3 cup half-and-half (light cream)

1. Trim and discard root ends and tough tops from lemon grass; remove and discard tough outer layers. Coarsely chop tender inner stalks.

2. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, bring 2/3 cup water to a boil. Stir in lemon grass, remove from heat, and let stand for 15 minutes. Press through a fine strainer set over a bowl, then return liquid to pan; discard lemon grass.

3. Add sugar to lemon grass water and stir often over high heat just until dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon peel and juice. Nest pan in a bowl of ice water and stir often until mixture is cold, about 10 minutes. Stir in buttermilk and half-and-half.

4. Pour mixture into an ice cream maker (1-qt. or larger capacity) and freeze according to manufacturer's directions until dasher is hard to turn or machine stops. Package airtight and freeze until firm enough to scoop, at least 2 hours or up to 2 weeks.

Per serving: 142 cal., 17% (24 cal.) from fat; 2 g protein; 2.7 g fat (1.7 g sat.); 29 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 53 mg sodium; 9.1 mg chol.

Lime Sorbet

PREP TIME: About 35 minutes, plus about 45 minutes to chill

MAKES: About 1 quart

4 or 5 limes (about 2 1/2 in. wide), rinsed

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons orange-flavor liqueur (optional)

1. With a vegetable peeler, pare green part of peel from four limes. Put peel and sugar in a food processor and whirl until peel is very finely chopped.

2. Cut limes in half; ream enough juice to make 1 cup. Add to sugar mixture and whirl until sugar is melted. Cover mixture and chill until cold, about 45 minutes.

Per 1/2 cup: 106 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 0 g fat (0 g sat.); 28 g carbo (0 g fiber); 0.7 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.